Custom Motorcycle

You've come to the conclusion that you want to own a custom motorcycle, but you're not quite sure how or where to start. There are several things to consider before you start on your journey for that original, unusual, or unique custom motorcycle.

First, do you want to totally build a custom motorcycle from the frame up, or to modify an existing bike, or order one fully made to your specs? What size bike are you thinking about? Large, small or in the middle? Do you want speed & agility, or do you just want to look cool while you cruise the highway? You will need to figure out how much money you can afford to spend in the long run & whether your plan of ownership will most likely take you weeks, months or even years to complete.

Second, do you have the time to do the customization/modification on your bike yourself, or do you have the resources to have the work done for you. If you plan on doing your own work, (as most of us do) you'll need to consider what tools you will need, where your work space will be located, how much help from like-minded friends you are likely to get, and your level and variety of skills. Last but not least, do you have the motivation and dedication to follow through once you've started creating your own custom motorcycle?

Third, how much work needs to be done on a bike to make it a custom motorcycle anyway? Here-in lies a controversial argument. Some say it's not a custom motorcycle, unless you change out basically everything on the bike and others say changing just a couple of things makes it custom. This is the logical answer; make it uniquely yours in any way you want! Build it, modify it, strengthen it, lighten it, expand it, downsize it, make it more agile, paint it, strip it down or build it up, just make it yours! If you have had it modified and it is no longer "stock", or you've modified it yourself, congratulations! You now own a custom motorcycle!

Fourth, get out there and ride!!

When you are looking for your first motorcycle, there are important things that you should look for, especially if you're planning to invest your time and money customizing it. This article will help you out so that you or somebody you know won't end up with a lemon. I know it may be tempting to buy the first motorcycle you find... don't! It is definitely a good idea to shop around and see what your options are, whether it's the cost, engine displacement, or the model or style of motorcycle that fits you. I recommend buying a pre owned motorcycle from a private seller via your local newspaper, or a classified website like Craigslist.org. Dealers are usually very over priced for used motorcycles, as they mark them up over bluebook value.

While you are searching for a motorcycle, be sure you bring a motorcycle savvy friend with you if you have one. Also, the hunt requires a certain set of "tools". I like to bring a flashlight and a small mirror with me when I'm hunting for a motorcycle. Even in the daytime, a flashlight can be very helpful. Start by looking at the overall "look" of the motorcycle. Does it look shiny and new, or are there scratches and dings? Any signs of damage over the foot peg level, can mean that the motorcycle has been laid down or wrecked. Next, move on to the tires. Do they look worn or cracked? Are they slicks or track take offs? Do they have a decent amount of tread left? Looking at the tires is a good way to tell what the motorcycle has been used for.

After you have inspected the body work and the tires, move on to the most important part of the motorcycle, the engine. Look for significant quantities of grease, oil, and dirt, if there is a good amount of any of these substances, it can tell you a lot about how well this machine was maintained. If there'sthere is too much dirt, grease, or oil, it can be a sign of potential problems. If the bike is too clean, that could mean that the seller is trying to hide something from you. Just keep in mind that a little dirt is normal. Look at the engine covers, are they original, or have they been replaced? You can tell a lot just from the style of covers that are on the engine. If the engine covers have a performance company name on them, chances are they are not original covers. This could mean that the motorcycle you are looking at has been raced. Another way to see if it has in fact been raced, is to look at the heads of the bolts holding it all together. If they have holes drilled in them, the bike probably has been raced. These holes are for small cables that go through the head of the bolt for safety reasons, and are required on most tracks.

Now check out the chain/belt and sprockets. These can tell you a lot about how the motorcycle was ridden. If there are teeth missing on the sprockets, it could mean a few things. It could mean that the bike has been ridden hard, or stunted. It could also mean that it really hasn't been maintained as well as it should have been. While looking at the chain/belt there are a number of things to look for here as well. Is the chain rusty, has it been repaired, how much play does it have? For a belt, the same kind of scenario, is the belt frayed, missing teeth, cracked or broken? Either way I would recommend getting a new one.

Inspect the frame carefully. Check out the welds to make sure that they are not broken or cracked. Has the frame been modified, or repaired? This can be a tell-tale sign that the bike has been abused. Look for stickers on the frame that might be concealing damage, also check that the VIN number is stamped into the frame someplace and matches the VIN on the Title, overlooking this can cause you a world of trouble. If the inspection looks good, there's only one thing left to do. If the owner is ok with it, and you have never ridden before, or don'tdo not have a license yourself, have your friend take the motorcycle for a test ride. A simple test ride can tell you how the bike runs, and any quirks that may arise, and also show you how the bike responds performance wise, and to rider input. HAPPY HUNTING!

One of the most impressive performance upgrades you can do to your custom streetbike, is to put on lighter wheels! I know, you see that these wheels tip the scales at like 10 pounds less than oem, so you're contemplating, 10 pounds isn't going to warrant spending all that money for light custom motorcycle rims. But the real important thing is not how much weight are you dropping, it's where is the weight you will be losing?

Lighter wheels will make a huge  change in the handling of your bike, acceleration and deceleration "braking" of your bike for the listed reasons.
Non-Rotational Weight:

One oz reduced from a rims total weight, is equal to 4 ounces removed from another part of the bike. Magnesium wheels will on average weigh at least 10 pounds less than your stock aluminum wheels. This is equal to 40 pounds of weight removal on the motorcycle, not too bad...

Rotational Weight:
This is the weight reduction on the outer rim of the wheel and this is where the weight loss makes a RIDICULOUS improvement. At 100mph, each ounce of weight reduced here, is the same as having 25 lbs of weight taken off the motorcycle! This is real weight that must be turned, accelerated, and stopped, and likewise, it will improve turning, acceleration, and stopping.

At any speed the reduction is relative to the velocity of the bike. As you increase your velocity the weight savings will increase exponentially. There are many types of aftermarket custom motorcycle wheels out there, made in a variety of different materials, such as aluminum, magnesium, and carbon fiber.What to expect:

Most people who upgrade to light wheels, experience better acceleration, more responsive engine braking, "lighter feeling" in motion, and easier turning, with no perceivable stability loss. Due to their ability to start spinning so easily, many riders report being able to drift with the back tire through corners, but without any loss of control.

Conclusion:
Although they may be expensive, I truly believe that aftermarket motorcycle wheels are an unmatched modification for anyone looking to get more performance from their motorcycle. What other part can you get for your streetbike that allots you better handling, better braking, better acceleration, and better looks for that kind of money?

In the wonderful world of Fighterdom, you are only limited by your imagination. In the grand scheme of things, we are working with 3 main elements: the wheels, the engine and the seat. The way in which these elements are connected, to work as a whole, are practically limitless. Chassis design, suspension components, and body design are all key factors of what makes a motorcycle unique. Each part that is assembled with the machine not only adds in its function but also to it's style.

One thing that has always intrigued me was frame design. With out a frame we basically have a pile of random parts, but there's more to it then just a place to bolt it all together. This is the beginning and end of how well your bike is going to perform. You can put the best suspension, biggest brakes, and lightest wheels you can afford on your bike, but if the frame is weak and twitchy all those killer parts are for nothing. In the day and age we live in, it's hard to beat the quality and construction of the latest and greatest factory superbikes. Let's face it. They have the time and money to put all the R&D and design into them they want until you have a super light, super rigid frame. Now that doesn't mean we have to swear off the idea of designing our own. This is kind of the crème de la crème of building a special. A truly one off frame separates the men from the boys so to speak. For those of us with older bikes this can greatly help overall performance and handling by making the bike much more sturdy and responsive. But also on a styling note this is where you can really start laying out the look of a bike. The chopper crowd has been stretching and raking frames for decades. This was for a mater of style. But when you start building your own frame you can make it all work together. You can have the style and performance in one package.

Different Streetfighter Motorcycle Frame Designs :

Trellis Frames:
For those of you that have been around the fighter scene, you no doubt have seen the beautiful examples built by Spondon, Harris, RAU and some of the later builders such as Martek, Steelheart and PEST. The most common design of these frames is a trellis format, similar to Ducati and MV Agusta. Built from either large diameter aluminum tube or chromoly steel, they offer a very light and rigid construction, but also give the builder a range of adjustability in component placement and over all layout. Mounting points can be made to fit many different engine configurations and also allow for a range of suspension locations.

Backbone or Cradle-Style Frame:
The next form of frame configuration is the backbone style or cradle frame. Most commonly found in older bikes and traditionally styled cruisers. RAU has adapted a version of this to act as a stressed member frame. Instead of a full cradle frame that has mounting points for the engine to sit into, they use the engine to mount the frame. This style does away with the lower frame rails. It incorporates a large diameter tube for the "backbone" and a section of down tubes to connect to the engine mounts. Honda has also adapted this style frame on their Hornet line. This setup is not only very rigid but also allows to showcase the engine. The down side is the frame has to go over the engine witch can make the bike rather tall.

Twin-Spar or Twin-Beam Frame:
The twin spar or twin beam frame is one of the most commonly used frames among sportbikes. If you've owned a GSXR, YZF, CBR or ZX of the last 10 years you've ridden a twin spar. They are very rigid, and strong frames. They can be heavy and bulky compared to other examples but in recent years the manufacturers have come up with new technologies to help cut the weight while still maintaining the strength. Arguably not the prettiest of designs but can be made to work as eye candy if done well. Another advantage of this design is the ability to hold or hide some of your components or fluids. Case in point the Buell XB series with its fuel in frame design.

Monocoque Frame:
One of the most unique designs is the monocoque. This can be done a number of ways. A number of panels that bolt together, tubes that mount in triangulated shapes, even just bolting everything to the engine. It's a complex structural design that pulls the machine together in a very unorthodox way.

As for materials these frames can be made from, the range is also large. Steel and aluminum being the most common, although there are examples that have been made of carbon fiber, stainless steel and titanium. All these materials require a certain amount of skill to work with. Steel is probably the easiest and cheapest although is the heaviest of materials. The up side is it is the most resilient to flexing forces and if designed right can weigh in very close to an Aluminum frame. Aluminum would be next up the scale but takes more skill to work with. Welding aluminum can be tricky. It melts faster then steel and you have to have a good working knowledge of this material for it to weld right. It is very rigid and strong though and also half the weight of steel to gain the same strength. Titanium is very expensive and hard to get in large quantities but is the lightest and strongest of the more common metals. Carbon fiber is also getting harder to get and requires a totally different set of skills to work with. It also requires quite a bit to gain the same strength as the aforementioned metals. It is brittle though and has been known to shatter under the right forces.

So how do we lay all this out and make it work? Well, like I said earlier, that's what you have to figure out. I will say this. Start drawing lines from the steering head to the swingarm pivot and go from there. Look at some new bikes and how they are laid out. Specifically, look at there mounting points; steering, engine and rear end. Break out your imaginary pen, A.K.A. your finger, and start drawing lines from one point to another. I'm interested in what you'll come up with. There's a lot more to this as well, such as component positioning, center of gravity, rake, trail ride height etc., but we will attack these issues another time!

So we have the basics of swapping tail sections, installing flat bars, changing lights, etc....

But what about the parts that bolt to these parts?

And the parts that bolt to those parts? And so on and so forth.

Basically what I'm getting at is there are so many ideas that we could implement into our builds.

Let's take some ideas form the German scene to start. They have some of the most detailed bikes around. They use a large amount of custom billet parts that have been designed to clean up all the OEM plastic and roughcast parts that come out of the factory.

Fork covers are starting to become more common among many of the show bikes. A cue taken from the cruiser crowd that cleans up the front end. Most often matching the diameter of the triple clamps creates more of a seamless look from top to bottom. Also staying at the front end is integrated risers and bar clamps. Still using flat bars, but without the obtrusiveness of risers sticking up in the air. The riser cap is made to look flat against the clamp either on top or on the front side of the clamp.

Another neat look that has been popping up a lot more. Billet brake reservoirs. Get that ugly hunk of plastic off the bike. These pieces either just replace the plastic cup or can bolt into the master cylinder itself for more of a one-piece look.

A low buck version of this has been used on race bikes for many years. A capped off clear tube filled with fluid acts as the ressy. The neat part about this, aside from its weight saving quality, is it can be made as big or small as you like. A small piece of solid wire bent to position inside the tube aids in rigidity and allows it to be positioned in almost any direction.

The next level to this idea is building the reservoir into the handlebars. A look at the Gregg's Customs Hellion gives a great example of this mod.

Since we are talking about hiding things, what about all those cables? Another look to the chopper crowd gives us a neat solution. Internal throttle setups have been copied and reproduced to a much more affordable price range. The down side is they are rarely made to fit 7/8 bars. But I have your solution:

Once upon a time Honda offered the CT70 mini bike that used and internal throttle assembly. And guess what? It was a 7/8 diameter. The best part is it is still available and for the low low price of $25.99 you too can have this super clean super trick part that all the cool kids are doing.

These can be purchased from various websites. I have also run across some billet versions on ebay, but they are rare and quite a bit more. And while you're at it, why not go for that ultra clean look and put one on the clutch side too!?

Speaking of swapping tail sections. We all want that ultra slick piece of plastic to make our ass look good. The aftermarket stuff is rare and expensive. Some have gone the way of seriously modifying OEM plastic, some have made their own from foam molds and fiberglass. I'm totally for these ideas. It's a great exercise in creativity. For those of us that my not have honed these skills yet there are other options. Look at other alternatives. Pocket bikes for example. A lot of the mid size bikes are copies of some of the more popular full size bikes. They're just much smaller. Best part is they are cheap. Most can be had for around $40. Also, some of the oddball scooters offer really neat taillights and surrounds that can be made to work with a little thought and ingenuity. Keep your eyes peeled. There may be things you never thought of before.

Merging styles and influences can be a great way to add a bit more style and uniqueness to a build. Many of us come from very diverse backgrounds. Motorcycles, cars, airplanes, music, industry, art, etc. We all have varying interests. Combining some elements of these other interests can bring out a distinct look and style.

Now, I'm not talking going for a full on OCC theme project. Please, PLEASE! Stray far, FAR from this urge. I'm talking a bit subtler. For instance, the next closest descendent to motorcycles, Cars. Yeah, yeah, too many wheels, seats, Doors, a roof. But they do use similar parts. Wheels for example can be modified to work on a bike. Exhaust parts can be fairly easily incorporated. But instead of just slapping on a muffler tip, check out some styles of exhaust.

Old hot rods had some cool stuff going on. Side pipes, Zoomies, duals. But they don't just have to hang off the side. Think WWII fighter jets. Short pipes sticking out the side of the fuselage. A good play off this would take 4 tips sticking through the belly pan. Or maybe the tips pointing up out of the side of the tail. While we're talking aero parts. If you are lucky enough to live near a plane junkyard. Raid that place. Old airplane gauges and gas caps are very detailed and interesting looking. Even just small airplane parts can be cool finds and add that extra touch.

Industrial design is a neat look. Rivets, exposed bolts, hard lines and plumbing. Take a walk around your local power station or water treatment facility. Just watch for the rent a cop. But aside from hard parts. Take a look at finishes. Nickel coatings, hard anodizing. Art also plays a role in this, along with music. These are 2 subjects that go hand in hand. Album covers along with T-shirt designs. When you're dreaming up your next paint scheme these are cool places to look for inspiration. Even the custom car and bike world has offered up many excellent themes as far as paint and body mods. From the infamous flat black of traditional rods to Candy and flake of Lowriders. And let's not forget the ever-wild abstract art of the mini truck. Racecars offer up the most timeless of designs. How many of us know our favorite drivers car better then their face? Molding parts is a part of this idea too. Frenched lights, gauges, molded body parts and frames. Pick up some of those old hat rod and chopper mags. And I mean old. Look at the 60's and 70's. Really good old school tech in some of these that still holds true today.

Now since I started on about old tech and we are now on about the Café build off. This is where all the jumbled ramblings come together. We are all Fighter builders. We don't exactly conform to a strict style or genre. The café build shouldn't be any different. Think of the café era as your guideline. Keep that style in mind, but there's always ways to interpret and enhance. The bikes were all about light, fast, well handling machines. But they were also bright and intricately detailed. Every part was well finished and polished. So before you dive into you project, think of a few different influences and see if you can make small parts of them work together. Good luck to everyone competing and happy building.